Omiyage | お土産

I have to buy gifts for 30 strangers.

It’s a Japanese tradition of Omiyage: You give gifts to neighbors; employers; co-workers; landlords; especially when you first meet them.

The rules:
Gifts should reflect interests I share with the (possibly nonexistent) recipient. They should not involve reading English. Too cheap is disrespectful; too expensive creates an obligation. Creating an obligation is rude. Elaborate gift wrapping is expected.

Don’t give anybody four knives.
I’ve heard this more than once. Four is the death number; don’t give anything in fours. Knives symbolize severing a friendship. (Indeed, this implies that there are gifts for severing a friendship).

A hundred years ago, gifts included a slice of fish on top of the wrapping paper. A gift given without fish implied tragic news and that the recipient would have to abstain from fish out of respect for the dead. Including a fish meant “I’m giving you a gift, but don’t worry, no one died, let’s eat fish.” Now they just wrap the gift nicely.

The Magical Contagion
No one in Japan still cares, but gift-giving was spawned by folk medicine. The sick begged for food and healthy families offered rice. Their health permeated the rice and cured the disease: The “Magical Contagion”. Gifts transferred power from the giver to the recipient; unbalanced exchanges diminished the magical power of the giver. (Re: Harumi Befu). *

Today, food is still the go-to omiyage. Candies are recommended; but not if they melt or rot in the 100-degree humidity of a Fukuoka summer. I’ve run stress tests: Saltwater taffy goes into a greenhouse to see if it dissolves in the heat (it does).

Gifts should reflect where you are from.
As a Mainer, I hunt for anything lobster-shaped, lobster-imprinted, lobster-flavored or lobster-influenced. Plush lobsters, lobster lollipops, lobster-flavored jellybeans, lobster neckties, books of lobster photos.

Who wants this? I have no idea, but American tourists keep the entire Maine coastline financially stable from lobster-shaped soaps alone. My power will be transferred to my new colleagues by way of crustacean-shaped talismans.

Conflicting Information
Whiskey is a bad gift for a supervisor because it implies they are always drunk; whiskey is a great gift for a supervisor because supervisors are always drunk (My girlfriend insists whiskey is OK simply because it’s delicious).

Apparently even the Japanese are mildly annoyed with all this gift-giving, an entire nation waiting for a Yankee Swap. But it’s endearing and participating in it feels endearing. Befu wrote that these empty Japanese gestures have survived because they’re empty gestures, and so participating in them builds solidarity. Intertwining people in a keeping-up race encourages social contact and, more cynically, ensures that someone always owes someone else a favor (which is at the heart of every community).

So giving insincerely becomes a sincere act. It shows that you embrace the social obligations of the culture you’re joining. So I’ll buy some ground coffee for a stranger and bow, and we’ll wink and nod and we’ll be Japanese.

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On the Serious | 重大考え

I’ve read plenty of Buddhists who talk about the inability of the ‘typical Western mind’ to sit and be alone with itself in a quiet room. As a typical Western mind I’m enamored by distractions. I think about this when I look at the clock and five hours have passed since I’ve come home, lost to Twitter, Flickr, Reddit and Facebook. Everyone talking and no one thinking.

Of course we’re all very smart and know that the “information age” is “at war with stillness” but I’m surprised at how easy it is to fool myself into thinking the Internet is any different than television, particularly in its ability to present unserious things in a way that can keep me distracted from the “serious thoughts” that maybe I am supposed to be having, or want to be having.

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Yellow Raincoat |鬱金色雨着

I’m walking in a bright yellow raincoat when a bro in ray-bans leans out of a car and spits some chilled-out-bro slurs to the jacket and my manhood. While this is happening I squint at the sun and wonder: “Does this happen in Japan?”

It’s been on my mind lately: What small daily grievances have I assumed are universal that could be distinctly American?

Street graffiti – ‘penis’ scrawled in an illiterate penmanship on a mailbox - triggers Holden Caulfield-esque disappointment for me, which quickly becomes sociological bewilderment. Disturbing crime stories: triple homicides, random stabbings, biker gangs, ‘the highest number of sex-offenders per capita’, etc., have me jaded about lobster-and-lighthouse Maine, my idealized land of can-do New England pluck and down-home potato-charming rustic folk.

Of course Japan isn’t a land of sushi and cat-eared children delighting in social harmony and friendship. But I wonder what the new frustrations will be, and it’s a weird kind of excitement. It will be a relief to know that I chose that set of problems. Here, I don’t feel so empowered.

Posted in Culture Shock, Thinking | 1 Comment

Hello, World. | 今日は

First you’re buying clothes to look professional for a new job: Khakis, black slacks, collared shirts. Button-downs. Then, you’ll be putting on your old clothes after work one day – T-shirts with band names or ironic slogans, bright white sneakers, etc – and realize that your younger self is no more than a Halloween costume. A uniform for leisure.

I am moving to Japan because I’m determined to lead a more interesting life.

I’m still working. I have a 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.  job, usually 9-6 with an hour or so of checking in at 8 p.m. I walk to work daily, stopping for coffee and a bagel. I’m in a three-month oasis of boredom  between my college graduation and my departure for Japan.

My current job consists of determining what gets placed where on the website of a decently sized New England daily newspaper.  Since it comes in before print, I’m responsible for editing and shaping the coverage based on the reactions by readers. I edit video and I get to see the kind of human depravity too extreme even for newspaper comment sections. Every day delivers new challenges for my ethics and time-management skills.

I design things, I write things, I panic and then I solve things. If it sounds impressive, don’t worry. I’m a glorified blogger (When I leave, I will be a blogger, sans glory).

In August, I move to Japan. Fukuoka-ken, on Kyushu, where I will teach English to high school students.

Posted in Homesickness, Thinking, Travel, Uncategorized | 2 Comments